Pizarro, Bermondsey Street

I have already experienced Jose Pizarro's culinary expertise at his lovely little tapas bar ‘Jose’ on Bermondsey Street . A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to return to his magical world of Spanish food to try his newest venture, ‘Pizarro’, just down the road from his first restaurant. It is named not after him, but after his grandfather who had a bar called Pizarro in Talaván, Jose dedicates the restaurant to his memory.

With this sit-down establishment, the chef intends to offer the same style of authentic, delicious Spanish food but in a more formal setting. Much like ‘Jose’ the cuisine still encourages sharing but with larger more substantial dishes to share. Long communal tables, and picturesque window spaces seat forty, it is rustic yet a stylish place to dine.

Jose adores sherries and cavas, the wine list is made up of only the best, carefully sourced and selected. I had a glass of delicious crisp white wine which complemented the meal perfectly.

The menu is short and sweet as it should be, a variety of Spanish recipes using the freshest seasonal ingredients. As ever Jose's dishes are composed perfectly, without too much bread or carbohydrate; his food is substantial and hearty without being too filling. We were first given bite-size pieces of hard cauliflower dressed in simple but delicious olive oil and crunchy sea salt.

To start we ordered a few of the smaller tapas sized portions. A plate of Jamon Iberico Manuel Maldonado, the most special and extravagant Spanish meat you could ever hope to try; Quail which was absolutely divine, a lovely little bird cooked so it was crispy on the outside and soft and fleshy inside. It was served with Romesco, a classic Spanish sauce, a sort of thick orange paste with a vibrant flavour, made from roasted red peppers, almonds, garlic and tomatoes. I wasn’t as keen on the Duck livers with capers and fino (the driest and palest traditional variety of sherry); although the flavour was rich and sensual I found the meat too slippery, and visually the dish wasn’t very attractive.

Iberico pork cheeks with olive oil mash was the most luxurious dish: the meat was rich and melted in the mouth from lengthy cooking in heavenly wine and juices. Paired with magically unique mash, it was irresistible. The lamb with lentils and radicchio was my favourite though, intensely flavoured meat still slightly pink in the middle with a caramelised crispy edge, the addition of fresh chicory-like radicchio and lentils made it the perfect dish.

The desserts are inventive and creative, we chose the pear sorbet with cava and the chocolate toast with hazelnut ice cream. The glass of floating sorbet in fizzy liquid looked like a quizzical experiment, it was refreshing, if a little bizarre, a sweet soup with fun straws poking out the top. It would be a lovely light summer pudding. The crunchy and smooth, sweet and salty chocolate ensemble was a treat: soft dark chocolate mousse served on toast, a dollop of ice-cream with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of rock salt, it was an interesting mix of tastes and textures.

When I asked the modest chef what was next he replied, "nothing, I have all I ever imagined and wanted", now he deserves some time just to stand back and enjoy his two exceptional restaurants. Jose Pizarro brings better Spanish food to London than any other, he should be very proud.

Restaurant: Mon-Fri 12 – 3 for lunch, 6 – 11 for dinner. Sat 12-11. Sun 12-10.

Bar open all day.

Pizarro


194 Bermondsey Street


London

SE1 3TQ

No reservations, except for the private room. Visit the Jose Pizarro website here.

Anselm Kiefer: Il Mistero delle Cattedrali, White Cube Bermondsey

The new White Cube gallery on Bermondsey Street is a vast and impressive structure... very big and very white. This space is the third and largest White Cube site in London, following the success of the Mason’s Yard and Hoxton Square branches. The building dates from the 1970s and was primarily used as a warehouse before the current refurbishment. It was designed by Casper Mueller Kneer Architects and includes three substantial exhibition spaces, a bookshop and private viewing rooms.

Following a delicious meal at Pizarro I dropped into White Cube Bermondsey to take a peek. I have spoken before about my adoration of the area - great restaurants, cafes, gift shops, and now a great art gallery too, it has it all. The gallery is currently showing the work of internationally renowned German artist, Anselm Kiefer, in the largest presentation his work ever mounted in London.

The spacious, clinical rooms display art in a cool and minimalist fashion, accentuating the work's power without letting it drown in light. Kiefer is showing relentless, giant sculptures that felt austere and cold to me. There is an obvious lack of colour, which is made more apparent in this blank setting. His structures are massive, made from ravaged and salvaged materials, old books, buckets and bicycles; the tall white walls make the collection even more surreal. I was interested in the conundrum of strength versus weakness, a comparison of elements that is illustrated in many of the sculptures, unsteady constructions made in strong materials like lead and stone.

The title of the exhibition, Il Mistero delle Cattedrali (The Mystery of the Cathedrals) is taken from an esoteric publication by Fulcanelli. The name reflects Kiefer’s interest in illusions, mystical and material, he shows magic as he understands it.

Though I loved the gallery space, Kiefer’s work wasn’t quite to my taste. I enjoy art that tells a story, but this work felt one-dimensional in this respect. The sheer scale of the gallery building gives it enormous potential and I am immensely looking forward to its future contributions to London’s art scene.

Exhibition continues until 26 February, visit website here.

Jose, Tapas and Sherry Bar, Bermondsey

On typing 'Jose, Bermonsey Street' into Google a long list of glowing reviews appeared, so to say expectations were high is an understatement. Having visited London Bridge the previous night I began to understand the area better and was excited to explore the foodie scene here.

I love corner shops and have always desired one myself, so the tiny detail of Jose being located on a Bermondsey Street corner delighted me. Everyone natters away in Spanish, the atmosphere is truly lovely and echoes the casual eating style of Spain and the Med. A tiny place, stools cover every inch of floor and there are always diners hovering eyeing up the tempting array of fresh fish and meat presented on the front counter.

Jose Pizarro is unlike the chef stereotype: he is gentle, friendly and relaxed, he cooks and tours around his restaurant chatting. He was a Chef Partner at the hugely popular Tapas Brindisa in London's Borough Market and in 2008 opened two tapas restaurants, in Soho and South Kensington, both to critical acclaim.

Lucky for me, Jose was in the kitchen when I visited on a Tuesday lunchtime and he took time out to talk about and explain the food to me, personally choosing a menu of his best dishes for me to try. The knowledgeable waitress then paired the plates with exemplary wine choices, including sherry to start and dessert wine to finish. It is a very genuine environment, with an authentic Spanish tapas bar feel, a simple concept which Jose Pizarro mentioned had always been his dream to create, and boy, has he succeeded.

While waiting for my friend, I was treated to some spiced broad beans, dangerously moreish and served in a cute jar. The food that followed was exceptional, absolutely delicious and made with care and devotion. Jose chose everything for us, explaining the dish's origin, the region of Spain it hails from and his personal take on the flavours and style of traditional tapas. We were treated first to finely sliced deep red Iberico ham, oily and rich in flavour it matched the accompanying dry wine perfectly.

Specials are written daily on the board featuring the freshest seasonal produce and unique recipes. We were treated to the delectable Scottish razor clams with chorizo, so fresh and beautifully presented that I couldn't help but try a tiny mouthful despite my serious fish dislike.

Then came juicy prawns with chilli and garlic followed by pork meatballs served in a sweet tomato sauce and a rich, spicy chorizo and lentils dish. The Iberico pork fillet was the finest meat with a smoky taste and a little kick of spice. For the heavier main dishes we tasted the Iberico pork cheeks with sweet potato mash, and intense and delicious beef fillet and onion cheese on toast.

The array of wines is impressive, the selection chosen for us was expert. The 2006 Cal Pla red worked well with the red meat dishes, while the light fruity white 2010 Castel de Bouza Albarino matched the delicate seafood. After an absolute feast, we gorged on the simple Chocolate mousse, smooth and airy, creamy but not too rich, and were made thankfully strong lattes.

Bermondsey Street is a hidden gem. A nearby antiques market is temptingly signposted and many nice pubs and shops surround the restaurant, among my favourite finds were a couture collar shop for your precious pets, and a best of British gift shop. Irritatingly the new White Cube Gallery round the corner was closed when I visited Jose, so I couldn't tick that off my blogging to do list just yet.

In a thriving city where lovely restaurants are plentiful, I am always on the look out for those rarer independent eateries that go above and beyond, Jose is one such restaurant... undeniably exceptional food, and unforgettable character, it is a memorable outing especially if you meet the great chef himself.

Visit the Jose website here for more information.